Skill in a bottle

I've often encountered restaurant reviews which describe the food in a restaurant as being nothing special, but quite complimentary about the wine selection. And then at the summary, the reviewer gives the restaurant high marks. I can understand the transformative powers of a good wine pairing to an otherwise less than stellar meal, but isn't that cheating a bit? After all, it is hiding the mediocre cooking skills behind prefabricated flavors. Granted, some skill is necessary to know how to pair items appropriately, but to rely upon this is hardly something to take pride in.